跳到主要內容

簡易檢索 / 詳目顯示

研究生: 盧光輝
Quang Huy Lu
論文名稱: The directional spreading of surface wave in the shallow water zone
The directional spreading of surface wave in the shallow water zone
指導教授: 錢樺
Chien Hwa
口試委員:
學位類別: 碩士
Master
系所名稱: 地球科學學院 - 水文與海洋科學研究所
Graduate Instittue of Hydrological and Oceanic Sciences
畢業學年度: 100
語文別: 英文
論文頁數: 91
中文關鍵詞: shallow water zonewave spectrumdirectional spreading
外文關鍵詞: wave spectrum, directional spreading, shallow water zone
相關次數: 點閱:14下載:0
分享至:
查詢本校圖書館目錄 查詢臺灣博碩士論文知識加值系統 勘誤回報
  • The aim of this study is to investigate the characteristics of the directional spreading when waves propagate into the shallow water zone, North-West in Taiwan. Water elevation data from 3 ADCPs (Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler) deployments during 15 Jan – 1 Feb (2011); 26 May – 22 Jun (2011) and 21 Feb – 16 Mar (2012) were recorded and used to calculate the directional spreading. The three experiments were in Yongan observation field (the 1st at 2 stations; the 2nd at 3 stations; and the 3rd at 2 stations). The Extended Maximum Likelihood Method (EMLM) was applied in this study by DIWASP toolbox to estimate the spreading parameters smax and σmin. The variation of smax and σmin will describe the variation of directional spreading. In frequency domain, the directional spreading parameters show opposite results in different deployments. The directional spreading in the 1st and 2nd deployments do not follow the refraction law while the 3rd one does. In the time domain, the variation of spreading parameters reveals the semi – diurnal oscillations. The comparison between directional spreading and other factors (significant wave height, tidal elevation and current speed) show the dependency of directional spreading on the variation of tidal current in the wave-current interaction.


    The aim of this study is to investigate the characteristics of the directional spreading when waves propagate into the shallow water zone, North-West in Taiwan. Water elevation data from 3 ADCPs (Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler) deployments during 15 Jan – 1 Feb (2011); 26 May – 22 Jun (2011) and 21 Feb – 16 Mar (2012) were recorded and used to calculate the directional spreading. The three experiments were in Yongan observation field (the 1st at 2 stations; the 2nd at 3 stations; and the 3rd at 2 stations). The Extended Maximum Likelihood Method (EMLM) was applied in this study by DIWASP toolbox to estimate the spreading parameters smax and σmin. The variation of smax and σmin will describe the variation of directional spreading. In frequency domain, the directional spreading parameters show opposite results in different deployments. The directional spreading in the 1st and 2nd deployments do not follow the refraction law while the 3rd one does. In the time domain, the variation of spreading parameters reveals the semi – diurnal oscillations. The comparison between directional spreading and other factors (significant wave height, tidal elevation and current speed) show the dependency of directional spreading on the variation of tidal current in the wave-current interaction.

    ABSTRACT…………………………………………………………………………………….i CONTENTS……………………………………………………………………………………ii LIST OF GRAPHS……………………………………………………………………………iii LIST OF TABLES…………………………………………………………………………...viii LIST OF SYMBOLS………………………………………………………………………….ix Chapter 1. Introduction………………………………………………………………………1 1.1. Research motivation……………………………………………………………………….1 1.2. Research purpose………………………………………………………………………….1 Chapter 2. Literature Review………………………………………………………………..3 2.1. The directional frequency spectrum……………………………………………………….3 2.2. Methods to calculate directional spectrum………………………………………………...3 2.3. Directional spreading……………………………………………………………………...7 2.4. Effects of refraction to the directional spreading………………………………………….8 2.5. Effects of nonlinear wave-wave interactions to the directional spreading………………10 2.6. Spreading parameters…………………………………………………………………….11 Chapter 3. Data processing…………………………………………………………………15 3.1. Sources and pre-processes data…………………………………………………………..15 3.2. Wave data processing…………………………………………………………………….18 3.3. Wave directional spectrum processing…………………………………………………...21 3.4. Estimate the spreading parameters……………………………………………………….24 Chapter 4. Results and Discussions………………………………………………………...26 4.1. Variation of spreading parameters……………………………………………………….26 4.2. Comparison of the spreading parameters and the related factors variation……………...42 Chapter 5. Conclusions……………………………………………………………………...76 REFERENCES………………………………………………………………………………..78

    [1] Mitsuyasu, H., Fukuzo Tasai, Toshiro Suhara, Shinjiro Mizuno, Makoto Ohkusu, Tadao Honda, and Kunio Rikiishi, 1975: Observation of the directional spectrum of ocean waves using a cloverleaf buoy. Journal of Physical Oceanography, 5, 750-760.
    [2] Herbers, T. H. C., Steve Elgar, R. T. Guza, 1999: Directional spreading of waves in the nearshore. Journal of geophysical research, 104, 7683-7693.
    [3] Herbers, T. H. C., S. J. Lentz, 2009: Observing directional properties of ocean swell with an Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler (ADCP). Journal of atmospheric and oceanic technology, 27, 210-225.
    [4] Ewans, K. C., 1997: Observation of the directional spectrum of fetch-limited waves. Shell international exploration and production B. V., the Hague, the Netherlands, 495-512.
    [5] Hoitink, A. J. F., H. C. Peters, M. Schroevers, 2006: Field verification of ADCP surface gravity wave elevation spectra. Journal of atmospheric and oceanic technology, 24, 912-922.
    [6] Earle, M. D., K. E. Steele, D. W. C. Wang, 1998: Use of advanced directional wave spectra analysis methods. Ocean engineering, 26, 1421-1434.
    [7] Romero, L., W. Kendall Melville, 2009: Airborne observations of fetch-limited waves in the Gulf of Tehuantepec. Journal of Physical Oceanography, 40, 441-465.
    [8] Huang, W. P., Chun-Ren Chou, John Z. Yim, 2002: Experiments on the reflection coefficients of a detached breakwater in a directional wave field. Coastal engineering, 47, 367-379.
    [9] Young, I. R., 1994: On the measurement of directional wave spectra. Applied ocean research, 16, 283-294.
    79
    [10] Hashimoto, N., Toshihiko Nagai, Tadashi Asai: Extension of the maximum entropy principle method for directional wave spectrum estimation. Hydraulic engineering division and Marine hydrodynamics division, 18, 232-246.
    [11] Pedersen, T., Atle Lohrmann, Harald E. Krogstad: Wave measurement from a subsurface platform.
    [12] Sullivan, C., John Warner, Marina Martini, Frances Lightsom, 2007: Wave data processing manual. US geological survey open-file.
    [13] Birch, R., David B. Fissel, Keath Borg, Vincent Lee, David English, 1986: The capabilities of Doppler current profilers for directional wave measurements in coastal and nearshore waters. IEEE, 1418-1427.
    [14] Haren, H., 2000: Estimates of sea level, waves and winds from a bottom-mounted ADCP in a shelf sea. Hournal of sea research, 45, 1-14.
    [15] Visbeck, M., Hurgen Fischer, 1994: Sea surface conditions remotely sensed by upward-looking ADCPs. Journal of atmospheric and oceanic technology, 12, 141-149.
    [16] ADCP coordinate transformation, 1998. RD instruments.
    [17] Rieder, K. F., Jerome A. Smith, Robert A. Weller, 1994: Observed directional characteristics of the wind, wind stress, and surface waves on the open ocean. Journal of geophysican research, 99, 22589-22596.
    [18] Wen, S. C., Pei-Fang Guo, Da-Cuo Zhang, 1992: Analytically derived wind-wave directional spectrum. Part 1: Derivation of the spectrum. Journal of oceanography, 49, 131-147.
    [19] Rieder, K. F., 1996: Analysis of sea-surface drag parameterizations in open ocean conditions. Boundary-layer meteorology, 82, 355-377.
    80
    [20] Yang, T. C., Kwang Yoo, 1999: Internal wave spectrum in shallow water: measurement and comparison with the Garrett-Munk model. Journal of oceanic engineering, 24, 333-345.
    [21] Hazewinkel, J., Pieter van Breevooter, Stuart B. Dalziel, Leo R. M. Maas, 2007: Observations on the wavenumber spectrum and evolution an internal wave attractor. J. Fluid Mech. 598, 373-382.
    [22] Hasselmann, D. E., M. Dunckel, J. A. Ewing, 1980: Directional wave spectra observed during JONSWAP 1973. Journal of physical ocenography, 10, 1264-1280.
    [23] Donelan, M. A., J. Hamilton, W. H. Hui, 1983: Directional spectra of wind-generated waves. Phil. Trans. R. Soc. Lond., 315, 509-562.
    [24] Banner, M. L., 1989: Equilibrium spectra of wind waves. Journal of physical oceanography, 20, 966-984.
    [25] Sundar, V., S. A. Sannasiraj, H. Kaldenhoff, 1997: Directional spreading of wave in the nearshore zone. Ocean engineering, 26, 161-188.
    [26] Heron, M. L., 1986: Directional spreading of short-wavelength fetch-limited wind waves. Journal of physical oceanography, 17, 281-285.
    [27] Banner, M. L., I. R. Young, 1993: Modeling spectra dissipation in the evolution of wind-waves. Part 1: Assessment of existing model performance. Journal of physical oceanography, 24, 1550-1571.
    [28] Hwang, P. A., David W. Wang, 1999: Airborne measurements of the wavenumber spectra of ocean surface waves. Journal of physical oceanography, 30, 2768-2787.
    [29] Johnson, D.: DIWASP version 1.3.
    [30] Holthuijsen, L. H.,: Wave in oceanic and coastal waters.
    81
    [31] Young, I. R.: Wind generated ocean waves. Elsevier ocean engineering book series, 2.
    [32] Tamuda, H., Takuji Waseda, Yasumasa Miyazawa, Kosei Komatsu, 2008: Current-Induced Modulation of the Ocean Wave Spectrum and the Role of Nonlinear Energy transfer. Journal of physical oceanography, 38, 2662-2684.
    [33] Henderson, S. M., R. T. Guza, Steve Elgar, T. H. C. Herbers, 2005: Refraction of Surface Gravity Waves by Shear Waves. Journal of physical oceanography, 36, 629-635.
    [34] Ting, C. H., Alexander V. Babanin, Dmitry Chalikov, Tai-Wen Hsu, 2012: Dependence of drag coefficient on the directional spreading of ocean waves. Journal of Geophysical Research, 117, C00J14.
    [35] Babanin, A. V., T. Waseda, T. Kinoshita, A. Toffoli, 2010: Wave Breaking in Directional Fields. Journal of physical oceanography, 41, 145-156.
    [36] Herbers, T. H. C., M. C. Burton, 1997: Nonlinear shoaling of Directionally spread waves on a beach. Journal of Geophysical Research, 102, 21101-21114.
    [37] Hwang, P. A., David W. Wang, 2000: Directional Distributions and Mean Square Slopes in the Equilibrium and Saturation Ranges of the Wave Spectrum. Journal of physical oceanography, 31, 1346-1360.

    QR CODE
    :::